Also, I can't find my article that said after cutting peonies, put them in a bowl of water in the refrigerator for a while.  Do you know why the article said to do that?  Maybe to get rid of ants?

Thanks so much for your help.  I really appreciate it.  My peonies are from my husband's grandmother.  After 3 years from being transplanted, they finally bloomed this year!!

Thanks again,
Deb

You can store cut peonies in plastic bags in the vegetable area of a refrigerator. Recut stems and place in fresh water and you'll extend the bloom season.

Don't worry about the ants, they are just temporary and not a long term problem.

Most peonies take a minimum of 3 years to recover fully from moving. The biggest error in moving old peonies is failing to divide the plants down to just a few new stems.

Sounds like you're doing a good job with these beauties.
Jim W.

Make sure your peonies are completely cleaned up in fall -remove all old foliage and stems, do not mulch. At first appearance of shoots spray with something recommended for botrytis (You garden center will recommend something). Repeat in 2, then 4 weeks. 

This August/Sept scratch a handful of 12-12-12 around each peony plant and water this well.

I assume plants a growing in full sun.
No guarantees.....      Jim W.

In August-maybe even late July, pull the whole pot out of its prepared spot,  carefully tip the pot to remove the soil ball. By then the new roots will hold the soil together well. Try to not disturb the roots at all and lower this back into the hole. Scratch another handful of 10-10-10 around the new planting and water well.

OR wait until Sept/Oct. then dump out the pot and you can clean out old soil from the roots, divide the plant (if big enough) or untangle rots crammed into the pot. Cut the stem to 1 inch. You should be able to see the big pink 'eyes' which will be next year's stems. Plant the dormant plant and add the good fresh mixed soil as in the rest of the ground. It will actually be happier with this second method.
Good luck               Jim W.

Peonies by Allan Rogers, Timber Press.
Check Amazon.com or other web sites for details. 

A few others include:
The Gardener's Guide to Growing Peonies by Martin Page
Peonies by Jane Fearnely-Whittingstall
The Peonies by J. Wister

And a number of recent magazine articles have appeared especially on the tree peonies.

Have fun reading.       Best            Jim W.

Some of the newer hybrids have this character of self-dead-heading built in and always drop spent flowers.

Of course if you have been hybridizing or just want to save the seed, do not remove dead flowers as this will also remove seeds. Some people want to prevent seeds so they quickly remove spent flowers.

So it is a matter of choice, looks and intentions. Most
people dead-head to one degree or another.

Best            Jim W.

There are usually few reasons why peonies don't boom, but one of the most common is when peonies are planted too deeply. Ideally the buds should be no more than 2 inches below soil depth. Plant one any deeper and they won't bloom. Worse, they may take many years to move up to a shallower position - even if only another inch or two.

Of course this depends on the cultivar, soil conditions etc.

To correct this possible problem; wait until fall, then dig around the base and check out exactly how deep the new buds are growing. If the buds are more than 2 inches deep, dig the entire plant and re-set it more shallowly. This is also the best time to
divide the plant. It may take yet another year for the plant to recover fully but if dug this fall, expect flowers in 2003. Patience.

        Good luck               Jim W.

1. In the fall dig the entire plant. Locate the nurse root-usually thick and red-brown, the TP roots will be white and thinner. Often the graft is marked by a major swelling in the nurse root.

2. If the TP has good roots of its own proceed in #3. If you see no TP roots and the graft was not planted deeply enough do the following: 
    a: remove all the nurse root suckers close to the nurse root (use a sharp knife).
    b: cut the nurse root by a third or so
    c: plant it deeper with the graft union much deeper-at least 3 or 4 inches of the tp below soil level. You can also make a slight scratch in the base of the tp and dust with a rooting hormone.
    d: wait a year or two and follow #3 below

3. If the Tp has good roots - at least 2 or 3 roots 6 to 8 inches long, you should locate the graft union and remove ALL of the nurse roots. Usually the nurse roots are fairly fleshy, while the base of the TP will be woody. Keep cutting the nurse root back until you feel the resistance of the TP. BE VERY CAEFUL that you do not remove the TP roots.

Replant so that the TP roots are about 3-4 inches lower than before.Fertilize with 10-10-10 and keep well watered. Cut the top growth of the tp to a few short stems.

This will remove all the nurse root suckers and allow the TP to grow faster and stronger on its own roots.

DO NOT try this in the spring as it will surely kill the plant, but cut off all herbaceous peony suckers and keep well fertilized and watered until you can dig in the fall.

Best of luck and hope this helps.             Jim W.